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Elephants Arrive at the Farmers Market

· By Brian Lichorowic · From pages 24 of the print edition

The name itself invokes strange images. Unfair, and "John Merrick" inspired as they may be, elephant garlic is one of the healthiest, tastiest spring vegetables available to us. And it's here now, fresh and delicious at the Middleburg Farmers' Market.

Elephant garlic (allium scorodoprasum), which has very large, extremely mild-flavored cloves, is not a true garlic, but a closer relative to the leek. The smaller you chop garlic, the more pungent it becomes. Whole cooked garlic cloves are quite mild, with a nutty flavor.

It's possible to use cloves of elephant garlic as a vegetable—sliced and sautéed in butter or olive oil—as well as a flavoring agent. Each clove slips easily out of its papery skin, and, in theory, one clove of elephant is equal in size and weight to about 5 to 10 cloves of regular garlic. Elephant garlic is a good choice if you want to impart the taste of garlic into a something without the fear of overpowering it.

Elephant garlic texture is different from common garlic cloves, whose texture is more like that of a raw peanut. Elephant garlic is more like a radish, more porous and crisp throughout. Once cooked, grilled or roasted, elephant garlic takes on a gentle, sweet taste. Eat it by itself or spread it on a piece of crusty Italian bread.

Because it's milder and less pungent than garlic, elephant garlic can be sliced and added raw to salads. Be aware that it cooks more quickly than conventional garlic; therefore, it will brown right away and may yield a bitter taste. Baking mellows the garlic and brings out a nutty flavor. It is great to spread on bread or meats.

Hundreds of books and articles are available on the benefits of garlic to the human. It even comes in pill form but I've always had a problem sautéing little white pills. Far too "Star Trekkie" for me. Common wisdom says that elephant garlic is healthier for you because you can eat more of it! Makes sense to me.

Studies have shown garlic can suppress the growth of tumors, and is a potent antioxidant good for cardiovascular health. Herbert Pierson of the National Cancer Institute, calls garlic "a veritable pharmacopoeia" because it:

-Reduces Blood Pressure
-Improves Circulation
-Lowers Blood Sugar Levels
-Helps Fight Cancer

Elaine Lanza, nutritionist for the National Cancer Institute, says, "Garlic tops the list...."

As always, most, if not all the ingredients used are available at our local Farmers' Market.

Recipes:

Roasted Elephant Garlic
4 heads elephant garlic
6 glugs olive oil

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Slice off about 1 inch of the pointed top of a head of garlic so that each clove is slightly exposed and will lay flat. Place on a baking pan and drizzle with olive oil. Roast in oven for 20-30 minutes or until garlic is very tender. Serve as a spread with your favorite crusty bread or mash up and stir into a favorite sauce.

Roasted New Potatoes with Elephant Garlic
2 pounds small new potatoes (Red Bliss, Yukon Gold, Yellow Finns, or Fingerling potatoes)
4 glugs olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
4 cloves elephant garlic – peeled, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Leaving their skins on, wash the potatoes to remove any dirt or blemishes. Leave whole, or cut in half or in quarters, depending on the size of the potatoes. Pour the olive oil into a roasting pan or large cast iron skillet and heat in a 350 degree oven for ten minutes before adding the potatoes. Roast the potatoes for 45 minutes, until crisp. Shake the pan several times during cooking, so that the potatoes roll around to brown evenly. Remove from the oven. Drain the potatoes on paper towels or a cloth to absorb the excess oil, then place in a serving dish.

In a sauté pan, melt the butter; add the garlic, and sauté until light golden brown. Add the chopped herbs to the garlic butter, stir together quickly, and remove from the heat. Pour the garlic herb butter over the potatoes, season with salt and pepper.

Elephant Garlic With Goats Cheese
6 bulbs elephant garlic
2 bay leaves, snapped in half
4 sprigs rosemary
juice of 1/2 lemon
4 glugs olive oil
6 oz goats' cheese
1/8 pt heavy cream (2 fl oz)
2 sprigs fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
1 plump red chili peppers, deseeded & chopped
1 lemon, quartered lengthways
hot crusty toast
salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Cut away the thick central stem from the garlic bulbs and slice about 1/4 in off the top of each bulb. Pack the bulbs into a small baking dish, tuck half a bay leaf into each bulb, season generously with the salt and pepper and firmly place the sprig of rosemary on top. Squeeze over the lemon juice and anoint with olive oil. Cook, basting a couple of times, for 45 minutes or until the garlic is soft and squashy to the touch.

Mash the goats' cheese and stir in the cream to make a smooth, thick paste. Mix in the coriander and chili. Chipolte or any of your favorite peppers can be used. Just be aware that seeds = heat.

Allow the garlic to cool slightly and serve it in its dish. The thing to do is to let everyone help themselves to a bulb of garlic and some of the cooking juices. Serve the goats cheese separately, with plenty of hot crusty toast and lemon wedges to squeeze over the top.

The last recipe a personal favorite. It keeps well in the fridge and is great with nice bread and that summer's night glass of wine before dinner.