One of the most warped stories of my gastronomic childhood deals with how my brothers and I were presented different fodder as life altering surprises. When I was ten, I was already pretty much a full time summer employee as the primary dishwasher at Dibbles Inn, our family's restaurant for three decades in Vernon, NY. My older brothers, Bruce and Bob, manned the enormous line of ranges and every weekend, and were always crazy busy.

This particular weekend we had 5 weddings of 500+ people each in 2 days in addition to our normal Sunday dinner crowd. In walks my father on a busy Friday evening and he nonchalantly tells us not to plan anything for Sunday night. "I've got a big surprise!" he exclaims. And for the next two days he'd pester us with this same expression. At the height of battle, say around 3PM on a Saturday afternoon, Dad would walk by and whisper, "Sunday night. Big Surprise." My older brothers and I would be going nuts trying to figure out what was up. We looked through all the food orders and deliveries to see if anything special came in. Beef tenderloins? Naaa…Maine Lobsters? No big deal…Huge Racks of Lamb? Nope…These were all of the usual suspects we kept in abundance because of the restaurant. We'd work like dogs all week with our main incentive being the culinary carrot that gets dangled in our faces.

Sunday evening arrives and the last of the "blue hair dinner crowd" leaves (along with several sugar bowls and salt & pepper shakers). We stick close to the kitchen, saying goodnight to staff and waiting for Dad to emerge from the front. It was time. Dad made his grand entrance swinging open the kitchen door while holding a large, brown paper wrapped item. "You ready?" he asked. We were in a pandemonium. Dad had a cold beer in his hand, the official signal that we could all go "off duty". Now the unveiling. Dad rips off the paper. It was eight pounds of fresh calf's liver.

We went nuts, "LET'S COOK IT!!" It was as if a scavenger hunt had started. Like we couldn't get there fast enough, we all scattered behind the range line, each grabbing the necessary pans and knives. Mass hysteria. One brother started chopping onions and the other sprinted to grab a cookbook that had a recipe already earmarked. Lets all remember there are 25 employees leaving through he kitchen door. Many hung around knowing there was a "surprise". They now know its calf's liver. No wonder I couldn't get a prom date.

We were presented with several foods like this. Food, that to this day, if I held it up in a grocery store would cause, whomever I was with but particularly my wife, their face to contort in an excruciating exhibition of palette revulsion. Kind of a true Pavlov's Dog response for humans. Pig knuckles, blue crab, calf sweetbreads, goose, tripe or ox tail. But each one of these delicacies would send us into a frenzy. It was better than Christmas.

My Mom, the wiser, knowing how abnormal this was to most individuals, would just shake her head and go in to the dining room to get the family table ready. This was our version of "Sunday Dinner". Exiting waitresses and kitchen help would stare at us, all 'behind the stove' on a Sunday evening cooking eight pounds of calf's liver together.

One brother is still in therapy.

Health Benefits

This is the most you've probably ever read on the health benefits of liver. So for those closet " liver lovers" out there (you know who you are), here's your line of defense when your friends challenge the liver in your grocery cart.

Calf's liver is less likely to have the accumulations of toxins such as pesticides, hormones and antibiotics found in the liver of older animals. Selecting organic calf's liver provides the greatest assurance that the liver is free of these toxins. Calf's liver also is more tender and has better flavor than beef liver.

Calf's liver is an exceptionally nutrient-dense food as it is an excellent source of vitamin B12, vitamin A, copper, folate, riboflavin, and selenium; a very good source of zinc, vitamin C, protein, niacin, and phosphorous; and a good source of vitamin B5, vitamin B6 and iron. Although calf's liver is also high in cholesterol and saturated fat, (all things in moderation) its concentration of so many beneficial nutrients makes it an extremely healthful food.

Want more proof?
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=129

Simple Marinated Grilled Calf's Liver with Grilled Onions

Simple is sometimes the most astounding way to prepare something classic. My older brother, Bruce is pretty much a grillmaster, far and away, the best in the family. He came up with this using any meat this in an effort to eliminate using butter, oil and/or lard which was our norm. Its flavor is remarkable. Think of it as 'Liver and Onions' without all the oil and fat.

1lb Calf's Liver, sliced to your liking
1 large Onions, sliced thick for grilling
2 glugs Olive oil
3 cloves Garlic, crushed
2 sprigs Fresh Oregano, crushed
Salt & Pepper

In a pestle and mortar add the garlic, oregano and salt & pepper. Crush and move to a bowl and add olive oil. Mix well. Marinate the liver and onions for a few hours and cook on a very, (this is very important!) very hot grill. Place the liver atop the onion when serving.

Fried Fresh Calf's Liver with Avocado

My Dad made this a lot. I guess it was his signature liver dish. Avocado was introduced to me. Back then I just thought he was nuts to pair liver the two. Then, about 7 years ago I see this dish (and subsequently order it) on the Four Seasons menu in NYC. I guess he was ahead of his time.

Dad had the gift of food combining long before it became vogue.

2lb Calf's Liver, sliced to your liking
4 Med Avocado, ripe but firm, peeled
1 cup Flour
2 glugs Olive oil
3 Lemons
2 sprigs Fresh Thyme, crushed
1 stick Butter (what the heck, if you're gonna go…)
1 cup Beef stock
Salt & Pepper

Mix the flour, dash of salt and pepper together on a tray. Peel and cut the avocado into 1/2" slices (thicker the better in my opinion). Sprinkle with a small amount of lemon juice. Lightly coat liver and avocado slices with olive oil and then dip into seasoned flour giving them an even dusting.

In a cast iron skillet, melt 2 oz of butter, let foam and add the liver and avocado, sauté until brown and remove. Now for the sauce. Empty the skillet, add the rest of the butter and heat until it browns, add the juice of 3 lemons, beef stock and thyme, bring to boil and reduce by 1/2. Pour over liver and avocado and serve.

Mustard-Crusted Calf's Liver with Sweet & Sour Onions

This is an infusion of flavor into roasted meat. The mixture of vinegar and sherry give this a unique zest. Large wedges of the onion, with the sauce, are delicious. It's evolved over time but I've made it this way for years, seemingly, only for family dinners.

Serves 4.

2lb Calf's Liver, unsliced
4 Med Red Onions, 1/6th into wedges
1/2 cup Sherry, dry
2 glugs Olive oil
2 tbsp Balsamic Vinegar
8 Large Sage leaves
1 Shallot, diced
1 cup Dijon Mustard
3 tbsp Butter
1 cup Heavy Cream, room temperature
1/2 cup Milk; in large bowl to accommodate roast
5 cloves Garlic, crushed
1 1/2 Lbs Spinach
4 tbsp Parmesan Cheese, grated
Salt & Pepper
Flour for dredging

Cooking the Onions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large oven proof skillet, add a glug of oil, add onions and brown (about 10 minutes). Add a few tbsp of the sherry, balsamic vinegar, 1 chopped sage leaf and a dash of salt and pepper. Braise the onions for a few minutes until tender and remove. Keep the skillet handy.

Making the Sauce: In a small saucepan, over medium heat, melt 1/2 of the butter. Add shallots and sauté until translucent, add remaining sherry and cook down for 3 minutes. Add cream, bring to boil and add 1 tbsp of the mustard and a dash of salt & pepper. And a dusting or two of the flour if you want it thicker. Set aside but keep warm.

Prepping the Roast: On both sides of the liver make small (shallow) slits (about 12 total) and push a slice of sage into each. Dip in milk and dredge with flour so it's completely coated. Heat a small amount of oil and the remaining butter in the skillet and brown the liver lightly on all sides (3 minutes a side).

Lather all sides of the roast with the remaining mustard and parmesan cheese. Add remaining sage and garlic to the skillet. Cook the roast in the oven for the better part of 10 minutes (medium rare) turning once. A firm crust should form on the outside.

Serving: I like my spinach uncooked, but you can steam it if desired. When liver has sit for 10 minutes, carefully slice liver into 1/2' slices. On a plate, place liver slices and onions atop a handful of spinach. Cover with the sauce and serve.

Comment or catastrophes?
fbts@middleburgeccentric.com