Citronelle and The Manor House Provide Delicious Memories

For most of us, wedding anniversaries are very special occasions, although some of my friends tell me their most memorable anniversary is the one they forgot. I have managed to avoid that pitfall by planning events that take time and concentration. Two years ago, I wrote in Middleburg Life about the maiden Caribbean voyage of the Queen Mary 2, where Sandy and I celebrated anniversary # 38. Last year I described in the Middleburg Eccentric a memorable stealth dinner prepared and served by the young chefs of Market Salamander at a romantic table for two after the market had closed for the day. This year, as the fortieth anniversary approached, I encountered something of a dilemma. Our favorite theatrical piece, Les Miserable, was playing at the National Theater in January and I had an opportunity to acquire two front row seats. Unfortunately, the performance was two weeks before our anniversary date. The obvious choice was to celebrate two weeks early, so I bought the tickets, made early dinner reservations at Citronelle with celebrated chef Michel Richard, and reserved a suite at Georgetown's boutique Latham Hotel, which is home to Citronelle.

Of course, a wonderful celebration two weeks early still leaves a void on the actual anniversary date, January 29.

The Dilemma

My plan to solve this dilemma called for a second celebration with Chef Howard Foer at the Poplar Springs Inn and Spa in Casanova, VA, near Warrenton. The Manor House restaurant at Poplar Springs serves Sunday brunch, which fit perfectly with the timing of this year's anniversary. This would also permit us to sample the fare of a culinary rock star, Michel Richard at Citronelle, and also that of a talented local chef, Howard Foer.

Chef Richard is a widely acknowledged master of his trade. Born, raised, and trained in France, he built his reputation and a series of legendary eateries in California before moving to Washington in 1998. Since then, the chef and his restaurant have received every conceivable culinary honor.

Chef Foer is a Maryland native and self-taught chef who trained under James Papovich at Alexandria's Morrison House Hotel. In 1987 he and his wife Lauren started Festive Foods Catering, which continues today as one of the metropolitan area's premier catering enterprises. In 1999, Howard and Lauren acquired Poplar Springs, a 200 acre farm in Casanova, Virginia, outside of Warrenton. After a significant investment in renovation and new construction, they opened Poplar Springs Inn and Spa, where Howard now presides over the Manor House restaurant.

The evening at Citronelle was everything we had hoped for, big city ambience, a panoramic window showcasing the Chef Richard's kitchen, and a front house staff that simply would not permit us to have less than a memorable evening. Because of our 8 o'clock curtain call, we dined from the three course dinner menu ($85) rather than the seven course alternative ($150). Maitre de Jean-Jacque also arranged for us to have desert in Citronelle's lounge after the theater so that we would not rush through the evening. The evening was truly enjoyable and a grand gastronomic experience befitting the occasion.

When reserving our table at Poplar Springs, I asked Chef-owner Foer to take care of the details. We had dined with him previously and I knew we would be in good hands.

Poplar Springs' bucolic setting contrasts sharply with Georgetown's Citronelle. The Manor House is a grand stone edifice of baronial proportions nestled among the trees for which it is named and surrounded by 200 acres of verdant pastures. Adjacent to the Manor House is the full service spa added by Howard and Lauren.

We arrived at 1:00 in the afternoon and were led to a table by manager Pierre Monyard. Following a celebratory libation, a parade of dishes began appearing at our table. It was a very long and delicious parade. Rather than describe all of the wonderful items served at both establishments, the following are the ones that I would order for a special dinner for two, regardless of chef of origin.

I would begin with the demitasse of saffron-lobster bisque infused with garlic and the lightly battered duo of fried oyster bedded down on a caramelized dice of rutabaga, both from Poplar Springs. Next would be Citronelle's Parmesan and Gruyere souffle with black truffles and the melt-in-your-mouth braised veal cheek with chestnut fettuccini from Poplar Springs. The entree would be a difficult decision. I think I'd settle for Chef Richard's squab three-ways, with sliced roasted breast meat, spicy fried legs, and a warm pate of delicious force meat. I would also order the filet of wild rockfish garnished with salmon caviar and served on a seafood medley sauteed in butter with mussels, lobster, and fresh fennel prepared by Chef Foer.

Desert is another tough choice. Poplar Springs Executive Pastry Chef Jennifer Hannan is as competent as she is creative. Her offerings never fail to please. But Chef Richard began his culinary life as a baker and pastry maker. With talented new pastry chef Heather Chitum on board, Chef Richard's first love shines through. The array of sweets placed before us at Citronelle rivaled a cruise ship's midnight buffet in quantity, but exceeded its quality a thousand times over.

So, would I pick one restaurant over the other? No, I'd strongly recommend both. Citronelle is a haute cuisine hoot, where you are always likely to see someone you'll recognize from the pages of the Washington Post. But you need not drive into the big city for every special occasion. Reward yourself and someone special with a short drive to the elegant Poplar Springs Inn and Spa, where all of your senses will be treated royally.