As much as I enjoy the flavors of food, it is often the memories that food evokes that bring me joy.

Perhaps my fondest memories of food occurred at my grandparents' house in South Carolina. Alas, not all of those food memories are good. We'd always try to have fried chicken the night before we left, so we could take some in the cooler for the long car ride home the next day. My grandparents' fried chicken cannot be rivaled (I have tried to replicate it, and there is no way). On one of these trips, after a morning spent in the back of the station wagon seeing how many green grapes we could stuff in our mouths, my brother and I dug into the container of cold fried chicken. There it was, the perfect piece – a nugget of fried goodness. Mmmm, batter, I thought. Salivating, I bit into it, anticipating that release of cold, trapped grease… Blegh! Instead I got bitter mushiness, and it was then that I realized my little nugget of batter gold actually contained a chicken liver. Gross.

And so for nearly 20 years I didn't get near any offal, much less eat the stuff. Then it happened. I don't remember where, or how, but I realized one day while enjoying a sandwich of braunschweiger that IT ACTUALLY CONTAINED LIVER. And pork liver, at that! The horror. But I loved the stuff. So it began: my love affair with all things liver. I don't think I'll ever get to the point of forcing my offspring to eat eggs and brains for breakfast, as my grandfather did to my mother, but it is time we all become a little more open-minded to the deliciousness and benefits of liver.

According to the Weston A. Price Foundation, liver is packed full of nutrients, more so than any other food. Liver contains protein, vitamin A, all of the B vitamins, folic acid, iron, copper, zinc, chromium, and several other important nutrients. Because of its high nutrient value, many cultures have treated liver as a curative, a source of strength and even as sacred. However, be sure you are getting your liver (or any meat, for that matter) from a trusted, preferably natural/organic, preferably local, source. Liver from conventionally raised chickens, pigs and calves is not recommended.

While I have included only one liver recipe, all of these are perfect for this warmer – but not too warm – weather we are beginning to get. Take these with you to the races, on a picnic, or to your front porch to take in a glass of wine and the sunset. Whatever you do, enjoy!

Liver Paté with Aspic

This is a wonderful, easily transportable dish to make for a tailgate. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, cornichons, capers, chopped red onion and Dijon or whole-grain mustard. I purchased the chicken livers from Fields of Athenry Farm (order online at fieldsofathenryfarm.com), and they were divine. If you are feeling lazy, you can always count on Middleburg's French Hound to have out-of-this-world paté!

For the paté:
¾ lb. raw, natural chicken livers, trimmed
2 bay leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
½ cup Port
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature (try the Amish butter from Fields of Athenry)
¼ teaspoon black truffle oil (optional)
2 tablespoons heavy cream

For the aspic:
¼ cup cold water
1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin
1 ¾ cup clarified beef, veal, or lamb stock, boiling
Juice of half a lemon
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Marinate the livers overnight in the Port with the bay leaves and garlic. Drain the livers, reserving the fluid and garlic. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the livers and toss until they are no longer red, about 30 seconds. Add the liquid and garlic and simmer another two minutes, until the livers are firm but still pink inside. Remove the livers using a slotted spoon and set aside to cool. Continue cooking the liquid until it has reduced back down to about 2 tablespoons. Turn the heat down to medium-low and pour in the cream, stirring to combine with the hot butter and reduced marinade. Pour this over the livers and let cool to room temperature. Place the livers and juices in a blender, purée until smooth, then place in the refrigerator to cool. Meanwhile, whip the butter using a handheld blender. Once cool, gradually add the liver purée and the truffle oil, if using, to the butter, continuing to whip with the blender. When combined, spoon the paté into a large crock or individual crocks. Can be garnished with herbs and served as is, or covered in aspic.

For the aspic, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a saucepan, allowing to sit for one minute. Then add ¼ cup boiling stock, stirring until the gelatin dissolves. Add the remainder of the stock, the lemon juice and the Worcestershire sauce, stirring to combine. Allow the mixture to cool in the refrigerator. Once it begins to set, pour it on top of the crock(s) filled with paté.

Grown-Up Meatloaf

Think of this as meatloaf on steroids…or a country paté. I loved Mom's meatloaf as a kid, but it doesn't sit well with me today. This one is for grown-ups, and it is perfect for picnics because it's served room temperature. Put a couple of slices in a ciabatta or focaccia with some mayo and mustard. Yum!

¾ cup brandy
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup minced or grated onion
3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
¾ lb. ground pork
¾ lb. ground veal
1 ½ lb. thick-cut bacon
2 ½ teaspoons salt
1 ½ teaspoons ground dried thyme
1 ½ teaspoons ground allspice
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
10 oz. thick-cut ham, cut into ¼" strips

Heat the oven to 350°. Line a 9x5x3 loaf pan with the bacon strips, allowing it to drape over the sides. Use three strips on each end. Finely chop the remaining bacon. On the stovetop, boil the brandy until it is reduced by one-third, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Sauté the onion and garlic in the butter over medium heat until translucent, but do not brown. In a large bowl, mix the pork, veal and chopped bacon using your hands or a fork. Add the onion, garlic, and spices and mix well. Then add the reduced brandy, eggs and cream and combine well.

Press half of the mixture into the bacon-lined loaf pan. Place the strips of ham across this layer, and then top with the second half of the mixture. Fold the bacon ends over and cover tightly with foil. Place the loaf pan in a larger roasting pan and fill that pan with boiling water until it reaches halfway up the side of the loaf pan. Bake the meatloaf for about 2 hours, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 155°. Remove the loaf pan and place it on a rimmed baking sheet or in another roasting pan, and weight the top down with heavy cans. Allow it to cool in the refrigerator overnight. To unmold the loaf, briefly place the loaf pan in hot water. Invert it onto a platter, and remove any congealed fat. Serve with accompaniments similar to the liver paté. (Adapted from Bon Appetit, January 2009)