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Eat More Veggies!

· By Alyson Browett · From pages 12, 13 of the print edition

Summer can be difficult. It's not the heat or necessarily the humidity. It's not deciding which concert, festival or party to attend on any given Saturday. It's not even trying to focus on work when your mind is on the beach or at the pool. It is that there are so many delicious fresh foods to eat, it's difficult to make decisions about which ones to choose. Hence, I am dedicating one more month to vegetables before moving on to fruits.

Already this year, I have been overwhelmed by the variety of veggies at the farmers' markets (not to mention the number of markets to visit – so far I've hit Purcellville, Leesburg, the Green Barns in The Plains, Mount Vernon in Fairfax, and DuPont Circle in Washington, D.C.). Sadly, some of my favorites are the fleeting, here today, gone tomorrow spring delicacies that you have to grab while you can: morels, pea shoots, zucchini flowers, garlic scapes. We're now beginning to see the emergence of warmer weather crops; hardier, more prolific veggies are sprouting up everywhere (no pun intended!).

The other difficult issue I face in summer is the hot, long days tend to encourage a lot of lounging in the cooler evenings. This usually means that, instead of slaving in the kitchen, I'm enjoying the company of family and friends over a cool lemonade, iced tea or cocktail. So when it comes time to cook, I am unprepared and the time has ticked away, edging ever closer to bedtime. That is what is so great about the variety of veggies that Mother Nature gives us – they really take little-to-no time to prepare. Perfection with vegetables lies in simplicity, allowing the produce to speak for itself.

Enjoy summer. Enjoy the veggies. And don't stress about dinner.

Grilled Pattypan Squash

This recipe really is a no-brainer. I am a huge fan of grilled veggies, especially if you have a vegetarian guest at your barbeque. These are also great on sandwiches with fresh mozzarella cheese and pesto. The same technique can be applied to just about any vegetable.

10 small pattypan or round squash, about three inches in diameter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 tablespoon roughly chopped herbs (basil, parsley, thyme, etc.) for garnish

Trim the ends of the squash. Slice the squash in half or in thirds (depending on its length) crosswise, forming ¼ inch thick slices. Combine two tablespoons of the olive oil, vinegar, garlic and half of the salt in a bowl and whisk until slightly emulsified. Pour over the squash slices and allow to marinate at room temperature for 10-15 minutes in a shallow baking dish. Meanwhile, heat a charcoal or gas grill to high heat. Season the squash with the pepper, and reduce the heat on the grill to medium-high. Place the squash on the grill and cook on each side for 3-4 minutes. Turn the squash to create crisscross char marks, if desired. Remove the squash to a serving platter, drizzle with the remaining oil, if desired, and top with the chopped herbs. Serve warm, at room temperature or cold. Serves 8.

Lemony Zucchini and Squash Salad

I am always looking to use zucchini and squash in ways that my husband will eat them. This was a success. Just be sure not to overcook the squashes in the steamer – it's very easy to do. Trust me, I'm guilty!

2 6-8 inch green zucchini
2 6-8 inch yellow summer squash
Juice of ½ a lemon
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons spring onion greens, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons herbs, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste

Cut the zucchini and squash into strips that are 3-4 inches long and ¼ inch square. Steam or blanch the squashes for only about two minutes and cool under cold water. Combine the cooled squash strips in a serving dish with the onions and herbs. Whisk the lemon juice and olive oil together until emulsified, and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the dressing on immediately before serving (if left to sit, the greens will turn a lovely shade of grey-green). Serves 4.

Italian-Inspired Broccoli and Cauliflower

We inevitably have leftover anchovy filets in our fridge, and I was searching for a way to use them up. The earthiness and crunchiness of barely cooked broccoli and cauliflower is the perfect palette for the salty fishy-ness of anchovies and capers. This dish immediately took me back to Italy.

½ pound broccoli, cut into small florets and sliced stem (if desired)
½ pound cauliflower, cut into small florets
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 roasted red pepper, seeds removed, peeled and diced (use jarred if desired)
1 filet canned anchovy, rinsed
1 tablespoon capers

Heat half of the olive oil in a sauté pan over high heat. Sauté the broccoli and cauliflower, allowing the florets to brown and crisp a little as they become crisp-tender. Meanwhile, combine the remainder of oil, anchovy and capers in a small bowl or mortar and mix and smash until it becomes a thick paste. Remove the florets from the pan, mix in a serving bowl with the red pepper and salty paste. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Mediterranean Carrot Salad

I absolutely love using carrots in Mediterranean-inspired dishes. The sweetness of the carrots holds up so well to the boldness of cumin, cardamom and other spices (such as nutmeg and cloves). Feel free to omit or substitute any spices and/or the raisins.

1 pound carrots
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 shallots, sliced thin
2 teaspoons honey
1 orange, zested and juiced
3 tablespoons raisins, dark or light
Splash of white wine or white balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon parsley, roughly chopped, for garnish

If you have young carrots, split them lengthwise, but otherwise leave them whole. If you are using older, larger carrots, or "baby" carrots, cut them into ¼ inch thick strips about 3-4 inches long. In a steamer basket, steam the carrots over boiling water for 3-4 minutes, until crisp tender. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Set aside. In a dry sauté pan, toast the spices over medium high heat until aromatic, about 2-3 minutes. Add the olive oil and stir into the spices. Add the shallots and cook until soft, 1-2 minutes. Add the honey, orange zest, juice and raisins. Cook for about 4 minutes over medium heat, allowing the liquids to evaporate and thicken. Add the vinegar and salt, stir, and cook for another 2 minutes. In a mixing bowl, combine the cooked carrots and the thickened sauce, stir and place in a serving dish. Garnish with the parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Roasted Herbed New Potatoes

This too is a no-brainer, but it's a great way to use your herbs and potatoes. It takes a little longer than the other recipes; however, you can quickly get it in the oven and enjoy the evening waiting for it to finish. Another way to use up herbs in this dish (or on corn!) is to create a compound butter, by chopping some herbs and mixing them with any other flavorings (roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, capers, etc.) into some softened unsalted butter. Wrap the butter in plastic wrap and form a roll; refrigerate or freeze.

1 ½ pounds new potatoes, washed and dried
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
4 sprigs rosemary
10-14 sage leaves
4 sprigs oregano

Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the potatoes and garlic in a shallow baking dish and coat with the oil, salt and pepper. Stuff the herbs in between and under the potatoes. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil or a lid. Place in the oven for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook for another 10 minutes without the foil or lid. Remove from oven and serve. If desired, smash the cooked garlic cloves from their jackets, mix with a little olive oil and coat the potatoes. Serves 4-6.