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Root of Warmth: Puréed Soups

· By Alyson Browett · From pages 22, 23 of the print edition

It's the coldest night of the year. Bitter cold. Howling wind. Need warmth. What better to warm you on a cold, windy night than a nice bowl of soup? The key to good soup is fresh ingredients and a basic knowledge of what makes flavor. Usually that entails onion, good stock or broth and maybe some (a lot of?) garlic. I've been addicted to a couple of root vegetable soups already this season, both using local, fresh ingredients. And both of them are good for you – in moderation, of course.

Soups are easy to make, and generally consist of whatever you have on hand. Both of the recipes I feature here are purées. Puréed soups are a great way to get those who claim to hate vegetables to eat them, and can be consumed by young children and older adults alike. They usually contain a main ingredient, with highlights of other complementary flavors. When making soups, be creative and dare to experiment.

Orange You Glad…

…That carrots get better if left in the ground as long as possible? Two weeks ago I was able to pull several beautiful, large carrots out of the garden of some good friends. Carrots are high in beta-carotene, which gives them their great orange color. When metabolized by the human body, beta-carotene turns into vitamin A, which is essential for the development and maintenance of good eyesight (but no, it won't enable you to see in the dark). Carrots are also high in antioxidants, dietary fiber and minerals. In short, they are good for you.

This soup is absolutely delicious. It is ridiculously simple, and honestly, it is difficult to mess it up.

Gingered Carrot Soup
1 large shallot, diced
1 medium onion, diced
2 tablespoons fresh minced ginger
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
4 cups chopped carrots
5 cups organic low-sodium vegetable broth or water
1 tablespoon local honey
½ cup heavy cream (optional)
1-2 teaspoons kosher salt

In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the shallot and onion until soft, about 3-4 minutes. Add the ginger and sauté about 2 more minutes. Add the carrots and sauté another 2 minutes. Add the broth or water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for about 15-20 minutes, or until the carrots are tender. Allow the soup to cool slightly. Then blend the mixture in 3-4 batches in a blender, being sure to not cover the blender tightly so that steam is able to escape (otherwise, the steam will build up and explode the lid off of the blender – never a good situation!). Rinse the pot, and after each batch, pour the blended soup through a strainer over the pot, pushing it through with a spatula, if necessary. Return the soup to medium heat. Stir in the honey, cream (if using) and salt to taste. Serve hot with pumpernickel croutons. Serves 6 as a first course.

Po-tA-toe, Po-tah-toe

With the whole low-carb craze, potatoes have gotten a bad rap. While they are starchy and full of carbs, the truth is, they are good for you, particularly in cold weather when we burn more calories simply to stay warm. Potatoes, which originated in Peru, are one of the oldest cultivated crops and are the world's fourth largest food crop. Potatoes are chock full of vitamins and minerals, including potassium and vitamins C and B6.

This soup combines the niceness of potato with the naughtiness of some bacon, cheese and cream. It is a meal in and of itself. I used Green Mountain potatoes from Smallwood's Veggieporium in Berryville, VA, who sell at the Leesburg Winter Farmers' Market on Saturday mornings. Enjoy this quick supper on a cold night with a nice ale or stout for added naughtiness. (What? Santa isn't watching…!).

Creamy Potato Soup
4 strips bacon, diced
2 medium onions, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 cups peeled and diced potatoes
7 cups vegetable broth or water
1 cup shredded cheddar
1 cup heavy cream
2-3 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper

For garnish:
2 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled
4 tablespoons shredded cheddar
4 scallions, sliced on a bias

In a large pot, cook the bacon over medium-high heat, rendering the fat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened and slightly browned. Add the broth or water and the potatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Using an immersion blender (or a blender, following the instructions above), blend the soup until smooth. Stir in 1 cup of cheese, cream, pepper and salt, to taste. Bring the soup to a simmer and then serve immediately. Top the soup with the crumbled bacon, cheddar and scallions. Serves 4 (main course) to 6 (first course).