Korean Comfort Food
After moving from Loudoun County to Fairfax when I was 10 years old, I was exposed to a wide variety of cultures and foods. Many of my high school classmates were Korean, and I had several close friends whose parents emigrated from Korea and still cooked traditionally classic foods from the peninsula. Even today, you can find a growing number of Korean businesses, including restaurants, in Fairfax County. I have always been fascinated by Asian cuisine, and Korean is one of my favorites.
I frequent some of the large Korean grocery stores in the county, including Super H Mart on Route 50, across from Paul VI High School. When the store first opened, I was one of a few of European descent who frequented the store, wandering around exploring a plethora of Asian delicacies. I always leave the store with something I've never tried before, determined to expand my culinary horizons.
Recently at work (at the Locke Store in Millwood), we received a large order of local white cabbage, and we were left wondering what to do with it all. I jumped on the opportunity to try a new recipe for kimchi, a sort of combination between spicy pickles and sauerkraut. The cabbage is brined, mixed with a spicy, salty, sweet mixture, and then left to ferment at room temperature for a few days. The resulting bubbling concoction is not only delicious but healthy. The result of fermentation creates several varieties of lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus), similar to those found in yogurt, which are beneficial to digestion. If you enjoy spicy foods, definitely try this recipe. Many, if not all, of the ingredients can be found at good grocery stores, so there's no need to visit an Asian specialty store. (However, I highly suggest a field trip to one of these stores; the closest to Middleburg is Lotte in Chantilly.)
Kimchi
Traditionally made with Napa or Chinese cabbage, this recipe uses regular white cabbage, which can be found in abundance at this time of year. Any cabbage will do. In fact, really any vegetable will do, and you can alter the recipe to include any or all of the vegetables listed below. Just be careful when you pack the containers – the fermentation process creates gases that need space to expand.
1 large head of cabbage, Napa, Chinese or white, chopped or shredded into 1-inch pieces
1 gallon of water
½ cup kosher salt
½ cup minced or crushed garlic
½ cup minced or grated ginger
1/3 cup fish sauce (nam pla)
1/3 cup chili paste (such as Sriracha sauce)
1 tablespoon honey
1 bunch scallions, cut into one inch pieces
2 cups shredded or julienned carrots (optional)
1 cup shredded or julienned daikon radish (optional)
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro (optional)
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds (optional)
Combine the salt and water, and stir until the salt is dissolved. Cover the cabbage with the brine and weight down so that the cabbage is fully submerged. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least three hours or overnight (I've even left it for several nights). Rinse the cabbage and squeeze it to release any extra water. Combine the garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chili paste, and honey, preferably with a large spoon or gloved hand (the spices can irritate skin). Add the cabbage, carrots, radish and cilantro (if using). Combine well, coating the vegetables with the sauce.
Pack the vegetables tightly into glass jars, so that the liquid covers the vegetables. Leave plenty of room at the top. Seal the jars with lids and leave at room temperature for two to three days. (Set the jars in a shallow dish in case they leak.) At that time, check one of the jars; if you see the liquid bubbling up from the bottom, they are ready. Carefully remove the lids to release the gases and taste test! Replace the lids and refrigerate the kimchi. Serve sprinkled with the sesame seeds. The kimchi should last in the fridge for about three weeks. Eat as a salad, side dish, in soups, or especially, with grilled, smoked or marinated meats (see the following recipe). Makes about two and a half quarts.
Bulgogi
This dish usually contains thin-sliced beef but can be made with chicken or pork. To slice the meat thin, freeze a ribeye or sirloin and then thaw it slightly at room temperature. This makes it easier to slice to about 1/8 of an inch thick. Or, you can venture out to one of the Korean groceries, where they sell thin-sliced ribeye. The inclusion of the fruits in the marinade helps to tenderize the meat.
1 pound thin-sliced ribeye or sirloin
½ of a kiwi, cut into pieces
½ of a pear, peeled, cored and cut into pieces
1 small onion
3 garlic cloves
¼ cup warm water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup cola
2 tablespoons mirin (sweet cooking wine)
½ teaspoon sesame oil
1 bunch scallions, green and white parts cut into one-inch pieces
Place the kiwi, pear, onion and garlic in a blender and blend until a smooth paste. Add a small amount of water to get it started, if necessary. Combine the water and sugars and stir until dissolved. Whisk together the fruit purée, sugar water and the remaining liquid ingredients. Pour the marinade over the meat and scallions, stirring to coat well. Cover and marinate for at least three hours and preferably overnight. Sauté the meat in a large pan until done (about eight to 10 minutes) and the sauce has reduced and become thickened. Serve the meat with sautéed onions, carrots and mushrooms over rice. Include the kimchi as a condiment. Serves 4.