Archive — this site is preserved as it appeared on 2026-10-26. No new content is being added.

Just back from..... Harbin Ice Festival: Exquisite Travels With Matt Hannan

· By Matt Hannan · From pages 20, 21 of the print edition

To be honest, when clients first mentioned a visit to Chinese Siberia in the middle of winter, I hesitated. We had explored the region once before in the summertime during an excursion to view Siberian tigers. However, overcome at the anticipation of one week in northern China in January, I almost refused. They were great friends though and so with a little insistence on their part I easily gave in.

On a map, the city of Harbin is just a little black dot in the far northeast reaches of China. But like so many others, it contains a population of over 10 million people. It is situated along the Songhua River in Heilongjiang Province and in the past was the ancestral home to the Manchurian people who from 1644 to 1911 ruled China. Harbin was also the home in the first half of the 20th century to a very large population of White Russians that fled the October Revolution. And in fact the downtown area of the city still contains an entire historic district comprised of elegant European architecture built by the newly arrived immigrants. These days Chinese characters and shop signs all but obscure many of the original facades but still a visit there is quite interesting.

So upon arrival at the comfortable and well-appointed Shangrila Hotel, we immediately opened our curtains and spotted from our river-view rooms, Tai Yang Island - the site of one of the world's three major ice festivals and our reason for traveling.

It was here that for two days and one night our small but intrepid group of three ventured out to view amazingly artistic compositions of birds and flowers, Chinese goddesses and legendary mythical figures. Chinese carving is renowned world wide and these larger than life sculptures made from blocks of ice from the river exceeded expectations. In the evening the highlight was a stroll through a section of the festival grounds that contained an entire illuminated city complete with Buddhist temples and pagodas sculpted of ice with neon lights inserted throughout. Temperatures hovered higher than normal in our favor but even so an hour at a time outside was enough.

Both days, to cap off each frigid festival visit, a taxi was hired to the nearest restaurant where quantities of 'bendi pijiu' (locally brewed beer), Dan Dan Noodles (a specialty of minced pork with cilantro and fragrant Sichuan peppercorns in a soy based broth) and assorted other Chinese delicacies were consumed. At alternate meals we sampled red cabbage Borscht, potato Pirogues and chai from local Russian cafes operated by various central Asian restauranteurs.

Looking back we enjoyed our visit tremendously, regardless of the distance and weather. So when given the opportunity to travel to a unique and fascinating part of the world, complete with excellent companionship, all the tea in China should not keep one sitting at home!