Kabul is a city behind walls for non-Afghans. On the street, life for the average citizen goes on much as I am sure it has for years, not particularly dangerous these days but filled with the challenges of life in poorer countries.

For NGO workers and diplomats it is an entirely different story, because the employers and Embassies are so worried, not only for the safety of employees, but of the liability they themselves face. They restrict movement and literally do not allow them out of sight of the security teams.

I had dinner with one NGO worker who lives a few blocks from the restaurant where we were having dinner and he said on another posting six years ago he freely walked to the restaurant but now he travels in an armored vehicle with another following and is escorted in by security. I sat next to a young Canadian diplomat on the flight from Istanbul to Kabul who had just accepted a posting to the Canadian Embassy for one year and he was told in advance that he could not leave the compound except for trips to the airport.

The main threat is kidnapping for ransom and political bargaining. So once again those who are fighting against western forces are winning, which is sad because there are people working in the country who passionately want to help the population and their efforts are being severely curtailed.

The Afghan people are physically beautiful, one sees few if any unfit overweight people. They have a steely resolve that shows in their eyes whenever they look into yours. They seem to be saying "we have fought and won every battle and we will defeat you as well." Having said that they are extremely polite, courteous, outgoing and helpful.

Most people in Afghanistan live in poverty but are not poor. In my travels to many underdeveloped countries, I have found that poverty breeds ingenuity and strengthens love of culture.

Once you get behind the walls and pass at least three security checks through steel bomb-proof doors, there are lovely gardens, good food, good company and a sense of elegance that certainly is belied by the street front.

In the daytime the streets are filled with people shopping and going to work but when night falls they are empty of pedestrians taken up mostly by foreigners out with drivers delivering them to safe spots to eat. The hotels are heavily fortified but once inside people congregate, often with musicians playing traditional music around candle-lit tables.

Before my trip to Afghanistan, I called for us to get out and leave their troubles with the Taliban to themselves, but now, having met Westerners working to help the people of Afghanistan I am not so sure.

Many, if not all, NGO's are planning to pull out in 2014 and the effect has been felt for several months now. The owner of La Taverna, a sort of Rick's for expats and visitors, says business is way off and getting worse. He is from Lebanon and has been in Kabul for over fifteen years running an incredibly good restaurant. I had dinner with some other aid workers who are really upset that all of their work over the past eight to ten years may go down the drain after the pull out.

The Taliban are waiting at the gate for the 2014 withdrawal and most think they will regain control after we and the allied forces leave. The elections are in April and the outcome may also have a chilling effect on the country. So the future of Afghanistan is not especially optimistic at the moment.

The people are strong and have survived 50 years of war and I am sure will survive after we leave.

I am heading back October 2 and hopefully, on this next trip, I will be able to see more of the country outside Kabul.