Vine & Dish

Much of grilling's appeal is the ceremonious act that evokes a culinary zeal in all backyard chefs. It is a natural gatherer of family and friends. Here is where a competitive edginess seems to emerge in the otherwise mild mannered. There are abundant opinions on "how to" techniques. Grill fervor can run as high as the flames and there is no shortage of suggestions about employing the best technique to grill just about anything and everything. So what to put on the grill that will impress? Fresh vegetables – yes I said that. Don't think of it as a wimpy cop-out - think of it as 'out of the box.'

Of course procuring these vegetables is 90% of the equation, they should be fresh and local to be grill worthy. Road trips are on just about everyone's calendars in the summer giving way to the art of roadside procurement. Tailgate stop and shops create a gravitational pull from the highway to the stand – the need to drop speed to park and gather is powerful.

Acquiring produce roadside is a straight transaction from farmer to consumer – skipping the middleman and all the trucking of product – thereby delivering the truest farm fresh flavors. Perfect for the grill.

Another facet of sourcing roadside is the opportunity for a cook to farmer chat where invaluable techniques are passed along, methods you won't find in cookbooks or online. Specific growing regions yield different results in taste and flavor profiles so taking a few extra minutes to discuss your acquisition is well invested time off the highway.

Here and now in the mid-Atlantic asparagus are in their peak season they have a bright, earthy taste that is a perfect complement for the grill as the char flavor brings out the best in those long green spears. Virginia has no shortage of roadside farm stand that carry asparagus – the best I have found is Sneads. I first visited Sneads Asparagus Farm 30 years ago - a family-run operation since 1961. It is a fixture on Route 17 just outside Fredericksburg. And as the name implies, asparagus are their forte. I learned this technique for grilling asparagus that I use to this day.

As for wine pairings with asparagus, they have a bad rap for being a "wine-challenged" food. Wine snobbery runs deep – so once again – think out of the box and try a Pinot Grigio. I discovered an excellent Virginia Pinot Grigio at Prince Michele winery located in Monticello, one of Virginia's more premium wine regions. Monticello is a designated American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the center of Virginia's hilly Piedmont region. It is Virginia's oldest AVA (formalized in February 1984). Monticello, named after the estate of Thomas Jefferson is the place where he cultivated his extensive French wine collection. It's is worth a visit to the vineyard, Carter Mountain wine shop and the Museum of Culpeper - certainly an interesting historically themed summer road trip.

This particular wine tends to hit notes of lime and green apple. Peach and mineral characteristics complete this crisp wine, making it a great pairing against the smoky grilled asparagus and the saltiness from nutty aged Virginia ham.

Finally, to address the gas vs. charcoal debate: Gas grills can produce a higher heat, enabling a better sear and char flavor. While Charcoal grills produce the best overall flavor, generating that smoky bond between flame and food. So as you remove that well - worn grill cover and dust off the outdoor patio furniture; consider vegetables as a main ingredient. Their exteriors become crisp and caramelized and their sweetness intense, giving them a comfort-food appeal.

GRILLED ASPARAGUS
WITH VIRGINIA HAM

Serves 4

12 Jumbo/Large Asparagus Spears
12 Very thin Slices of Virginia Ham such as Calhouns or Surry
1 Tbs Olive Oil
6 Bamboo Skewers, soaked in water for 3 hours
Sea Salt and Cracked Pepper

Peel the lower half of the asparagus spears with a vegetable peeler. Lay the ham slices down and place asparagus on ham, roll ham around asparagus, keeping it as tight as possible. Once you have all 12 rolled, take 4 spears and lay them flat side by side. Using one skewer at the top (just below asparagus tip) pierce through the four asparagus. Using a second skewer, pierce through all four near the bottom of the stalk. You are ready for grilling once you have one skewer running through tops of spears and one running through lower part of the bunch, resembling a picket fence.

Heat your grill to medium high temperature.

Season asparagus bunches with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place bundles on grill and cook for 5 minutes on one side, turn and repeat. Remove from grill and serve with a small mix of salad drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil.