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Room with a View with a Vineyard

· By By Tom Patterson · From pages 18 of the print edition

TO FIND A ROOM WITH a view one need not go all the way to Florence, but to Antinori's Tignanello vineyard, which is half way between Florence and Siena in Northern Italy.

In September, we drove up to the just completed reception building for Fonte dè Medici that overlooked the clear, pale blue swimming pool and spectacular vineyard. Inside we met Roberto, and his dog, Parma. If you remember, the Our Gang dog, Pete, who had a circle painted around his right eye, Parma was his spitting image.

While Roberto checked us in the dog laid under the counter gnawing a rubber chicken.

After saying we should follow him in his car to the Podere Tignanello he asked, "You have a rental car?" When I replied, "No, its mine," he immediately said, "Oh, that's too bad."

We soon discovered why. The mile drive from the reception to Podere Tignanello was along their historic chalk road. Maintenance, which is limited to grading twice a year, was to be completed after the grape harvest, about three weeks after our stay. Needless to say we shall certainly hire a car on our next visit.

Three of us shared a spacious 110 square foot, two-bedroom, apartment named Sangiovese, one of seven apartments, in the restored 15th century hamlet.

At our request, each day Roberto recommended a nearby restaurant. The first evening we drove almost 10 miles of chalk road, and found, at the end, the rustic La Cantinetta di Rignana. The tagliatella pesto was hands down the best we have ever enjoyed. Halfway through the pasta course, we were more than satisfied. Our waiter was not happy when we said we couldn't try one of his scrumptious desserts. He did, however, share his favorite flavored grappa with us. We so enjoyed La Cantinetta di Rignana, we came back again for our last dinner in Italy.

Fonte dè Medici, about halfway between Florence and Siena, puts you close to the great sights, sounds, and tastes of Siena, San Gimignano, Florence, Pisa, Lucca, and dozens of lesser known, but unique, old towns. Many of the towns hold weekly or bi-weekly markets that afford a marvelous opportunity to purchase fresh food or handcrafted items.

During our stay we visited beautiful hill towns. Siena, built on three hills, maintains a marvelous medieval atmosphere. Every August, it's 16th century pageant climaxes with horse races around its amazing sloping, round market place.

San Gimignano has a population less than 10,000 and still has 14 of its original 72 towers. If you can't get to San Gimignano, rent the movie Tea with Mussolini.

In Pisa, the Italians have done an incredible job of straightening the Leaning Tower. It still leans, but not as much as it did and it no longer is in danger of falling over. The tower recently reopened for tours.

Florence is the home of art, sculptors, and motor scooters. There are more Vespas than people!

The ancient city of Volterra, a bit out of the way, is in the center of the "culture triangle" Pisa-Florence-Siena. Situated on a high hill, you will enter the old town through one of the rustic old city gates in the well-preserved city wall. The inner city is a recognizable medieval center with many interesting sights: museums, a cathedral, the Pinakothek, the Roman Amphitheatre, and palazzi from the Renaissance. The city offers a far-reaching view of the beautiful Tuscan landscapes.

The walled city of Lucca has a rich history. In fact, there are three circles of protective walls that were built throughout the ages. The first quadrangular-shaped wall dates back to the 3rd or 2nd century BC. Its outer wall was planted with hundreds of trees in the 19th Century. While usually not near the top of the average tourist sight list, it is well worth the visit. For us, Lucca was the most inviting of all the towns we visited.

As we departed Fonte dè Medici for the last time, Roberto's dog, Parma, sadly woofed goodbye with his tortured rubber chicken hanging from his mouth.

If you stop in one of Antinori's wine shops, bring us back a bottle of Novizio extra virgin olive oil.