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Epicurean Capital Underwater

· By Brian & Debi Lichorowic · From pages 8, 9 of the print edition

New Orleans is gone. We're heartbroken. The epicurean capital of the USA. Underwater. The closest thing USA had to a Lyon, France. New Orleans was a gastronomic empire. New Orleans had it all. From breakfast to lunch and dinner. Not a bad eatery in the lot. It was more unusual to have a bad meal then not have a great one.

By the time you read this, it'll be old news. The mourning, rebuilding and healing will have started, but what about the culture that is New Orleans food? Commander's Palace, NOLA, Brennans, La Provence. Mothers and even Emeril's. All gone. Along with the massive tragedy of loss of life and suffering, we lament the loss of a culture. All it's history, its atmosphere, its heart.

My wife and I have spent many a time there, at one point making it our New Year's Eve ritual for many years. We'd trek down there to "eat in the New Year". For those that have been, New Orleans was SO much more than the garbage that went on at Bourbon Street and the dark spirit of Anne Rice novels.

As you walked the other streets of the French quarter, Canal, Dauphine and Royal you see the embedded ethos. When you walk through the Garden district you see what southern elegance truly is. The shops and the people. The cast of eccentrics! The essence of what makes a city and a civilization.

We assembled some of our favorite recipes that we were given by new friends we made there. Friends that went through hell. Friends we hope are all safe. (At this writing we still aren't certain).

Make a dish or two, sit down to dinner with your family and say a prayer for "The Big Easy". If possible, God willing, may it return to it's wonderful old self.

[RECIPES INCLUDED]

Commander's Palace House Dressing

One of those landmark places that you HAVE to experience at least once. Brunch is the best. As uncomplicated as this may sound, I was always amazed by the house salad dressing. Simple but always tasty. The Commander's Palace house salad consists of the usual suspects: iceberg lettuce, hardboiled eggs, bacon and croutons.

1/2 cup Onion, diced
1 Egg, raw
1 cup Canola oil
3 tbs Cider Vinegar
Pinch Garlic powder
Pinch Black pepper

In a blender, (or food processor) puree onion, a whole egg and blend 2 minutes more. Pulsing the blender add the oil in a steady stream until it thickens to the consistency of mayonnaise. Lower speed and blend in vinegar. Add garlic powder and pepper and blend for 10 seconds more. Then chill.

Bob's New Orleans Green Gumbo Beaucoup

Cooks talk to cooks. One early morning while jogging off the previous night's dinner, we met a cook named Bob, a silver haired, life long prep cook at Delmonico's and Vieux Carre. A local for 65 years. He was taking a break, out for a smoke in the back alley of a small kitchen in the Quarter. A huge delivery truck blocked our path, the singular reason for breaking our stride but a fortuitous opportunity to engage with this character! I asked him why he was there so early (6:30AM), and in full cooks whites. He said he was making something for a special family dinner that evening. (it was New Years Eve) After awhile, he asked if we would try a cupful. It was incredible. We proceeded to beseech him for the recipe. He finally agreed, seemingly actually flattered to do so. Bob wrote the whole thing down. The first thing he wrote was the following; "This is an authentic family recipe that my mother taught me in 1950 in the Quarters. It makes a great party main dish. Like Chinese food, it is long on chopping and assembling, but goes together and cooks quickly."

[DETAILED RECIPE FOLLOWS]

Shrimp Mosca

From: Joe Marcello & Nik Mosca
Owners, La Louisiane Restaurant

I believe I recognized La Louisiane on FOX news. It was reported that it was 90% underwater. Very sad. Chef Mosca has a cult following in the Big Easy. This was one of his signature dishes.

2 lbs Shrimp w/Shells – Large 15 to 20 count
6 cloves Garlic, sliced thin
2 whole Bay Leaves
1 tsp Crushed black pepper
1 tsp Salt
1 tsp Rosemary
1 tsp Oregano
3 glugs good Olive Oil
3 glugs Sauterne (or sweet white wine)

Over high heat, drop oil in fry pan and add shrimp and spice all at once. Sauté for 10 minutes or until shrimp turn pink. Add wine and simmer for 5 minutes.

Shrimp are to be peeled at the table and served with hot crisp bread for dunking.

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