Epicurean Correspondence: From Behind the Stove
I've received more email as a response to my 2005 "From My Mailbag" column than I did any other column. I kindly thank you all for your interest in my column and look forward to continuing to hear from my epicurean friends. Keep fielding me questions and keep sending me your beloved recipes. Surprisingly, as a result of my October 2005 column, "For the Love of Liver", I was thrilled to learn that there are many of you that appreciate the delicacy of liver. One reader, Virginia of Marshall, VA, sent me an outstanding pork liver and apple recipe. A country gentleman emailed me his story; a closet liver eater, only preparing it when his wife and kids leave him alone to fend for himself said, "They think I'm micro waving a Stouffers but I keep 2 pounds of fresh calf liver in the deep freezer for those special days. I fry up a pound in bacon fat and in the leftover grease fry up one pound of onions." God love ya.
Q: "Tell us something NEW to do with prunes" - Blue-hair in Bluemont
A: Prune & Cottage Cheese was a standard fare on Dibble's salad tray in the 70's. Always reluctantly taken last off the salad tray after all the good stuff was gone! But for you, my Damsel of Dye, from the Uncommon Cookbook, circa 1968:
Soak whole (pittless) prunes in water for 4 hours. Place on a skewer with equal sized chicken pieces, apricot and pineapple and grill or pan fry. Substitute with fish or pork if you like. Delicious. Q: "I bought and classically forgot about 6 gorgeous artichokes stored in my fridge. The leaves have browned some. How do you store them and what can I do with the ones that are on there way out?". - Twisk@mac.com A: To store: Slice a portion of the stem off and stand up in cold water (only enough to submerge the stem) with a pinch of salt and refrigerate. This works for most veggies - broccoli, asparagus, herbs, etc. – and springs them back to life. Old La' Honda, in the hills above Santa Cruz, CA "is" artichoke country. Have you ever seen a field of Cynara scolymus? Weirdest looking full-grown plants you've ever laid your eyes on. Think of a huge pricker bush with the entire choke, the part we buy, growing on top in the middle. Alice's Restaurant, (now sadly closed I believe), was a light honky tonk kind of place with an eclectic mixture of locals, bikers, wineophiles, lost tourists, and a few hiding in the corners you couldn't tell what they were. It's really a wonderful simple recipe for what was smugly told to you at Alice's that artichokes are one of the oldest foods known to humans.
Artichoke Soup
The hearts from 5 large artichokes
7 tbs butter
1 med leek, white-and-light green part, sliced and rinsed
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup shallots chopped (or yellow on ion, if shallots aren't available)
3 med potatoes, Yukon Gold, peeled & diced
12 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1/2 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs of fresh parsley
1/4 tsp cracked black peppercorns
1/2 cup cream, whipping or heavy
Salt to taste
Prepare the artichoke hearts. Cut the artichokes lengthwise into quarters. With a small knife, remove the thistley choke part and discard. Cut away the leaves from the artichoke heart and reserve for steaming and eating later if desired (why waste perfectly good artichoke leaves?). Cut or peel away the tough outside skin of the stems and discard. Leave an inch or two of stem with each of the hearts. Slice the hearts or chop to a quarter inch thickness. In a large pot, melt half of the butter and cook the artichoke hearts, leek, garlic, and onion until tender but not brown. Add the potatoes and stock. Tie up the bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns in cheesecloth and add to the pot. Simmer uncovered, 1 hour. Remove and discard the herbs. Purée the soup through a fine strainer or food processor. When ready to serve, heat the soup and whisk in the remaining butter and the cream. Season with salt and serve.
Q: "You probably can't cook to save your life." - Mark, Purcellsville VA
A: I edited out the colorful metaphors you added there, Mark. How about next month I do something geared more towards your type of "gourmet", "Family Favorites Mom Used to Thaw." Sound good? Q: "Where do you go in or out of town to buy provisions or other high quality ingredients? I've been trying to find hand sliced fresh fish? – Dave, Paris VA
A: I've been asked this same question consistently. I had an ongoing long stream of consciousness in a Word™ file answering it; I still believe that certain types of foods best hail from private enterprises. People that care. I consider myself a proficient forager, hunter and gatherer. I have about a 30-mile square territory that I regularly make the rounds. I like many places, for many different things, in many different places. I like the Epicurious Cow in Amissville, VA for really fresh fish, produce and wine. Their seafood supplier provides the store and restaurants such as Kinkead's and Grapeseed Bistro with superior seafood selections. Be sure to get on their email newsletter so you're alerted to the week's freshest offerings. The Lost Dog Coffee shop in Shepardstown, WVA for micro-roasted & blended whole bean coffees. In Middleburg, Home Farm Store for their organic, free-range meats, produce and prepared foods. Salamander Market for packaged gourmet products, prepared foods and the occasional wine jewel at a good price. The Locke Store in Millwood, VA has the frozen bread my wife loves and a fabulous wine selection. I even like the guy at Gilberts Corner who sells lobsters & shellfish every spring/summer. (Pricey but fresh.) Hunting and gathering every step of the way! Keep in mind the local farmer's markets and stands. Middleburg Farmers Market should be opening soon and is loaded with the best varieties of apples I've ever seen (over 20) and samples are generously offered. Lots of fresh produce and herbs, cheeses, breads, etc.
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