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Letter from Beijing

· By Dr Margaret New · From pages 4, 12 of the print edition

Beijing is under construction for the 2008 Olympic games. One cannot help but notice the frenzy of projects, bamboo scaffolding, new highly fertilized landscaping and mighty cranes dotting the skyline. The impression is persistent - this city has a mission, a purpose and they are going to meet their deadline. The Chinese government has pledged to spend the equivalent of 20 billion USD to build sports complexes as well as refurbishing the city's infrastructure.

With round-the-clock construction workers (an estimated three million pair of hands brought in from the countryside) officials are planning to renew this 3,000 year-old city to reflect the theme: "New Beijing, Great Olympics."

Leaving the airport, my National Guide, Qi, points out the subway construction, an extension to the airport and new 20-foot willow and poplar trees that have been planted to grace the Boulevard gateway into the city. With great pride he points out that Beijing is a city of cranes – the yellow steel structures that is- and looking out the car window in the late afternoon haze, I can see cranes at work in every direction.

Reportedly 50% of the world's cranes are in China and if they are not in Beijing they are building the infrastructure of Shanghai to be the next dominate financial center in Asia.

One need not ask if the construction be done in time for the anticipated crowds and Olympic games in 2008. It will be ready. After all, you have almost 355 days and nights, three million workers who are willing to work around the clock, no unions protesting human rights, and a Chinese people very anxious to please the world with their best face. This is certainly a winning combination.

Aside from the noise and dust of construction, the traffic never stops. There are always cars, buses or trucks on the street. And, of course, bicycles too. Fewer motorbikes than in Hanoi, fewer bicycles than my visit in December 2001 and many more cars. Must be a sign of a good economy that workers can now afford to drive instead of depending upon their foot power.

Being a woman who loves cars, small ones with some distinction, I noted that I never saw a two-person car in China. The small cars were four- person "boxes" and government officials preferred Black Audi A8 or large BMW sedans. Taxis were very, very cheap and readily available at every Western hotel.

Drivers have not discovered how to use their car horn or they are just too polite to honk at each other. It was pleasantly very quiet other than motor noise along the streets. Another notable aspect of Beijing that cannot be minimized is the air quality. Only one day of the five during my visit could I see anything beyond the immediate 2-3 blocks of buildings. One morning it was clear and I was so excited to see the distant side of the city and ring of hills from my hotel view.

What a great sight on a clear and sunny day. However, for the most part, it was hazy, overcast and hot. Smog was never discussed, it was not rated and people were not warned to be physically quiet as newscasters warn people in the USA – it just was not discussed. However as an ex-Los Angelino I have to say it was worse air quality and smog than any day I can remember trudging up the hill to my dormitory at UCLA.

The temperature merits its own discussion. It was hot, very hot during my entire visit, with July temperatures in the mid-nineties. No one mentioned the heat index or dew point but I could surmise that it was almost as high as the recorded temperature. It was just plain uncomfortable to be outdoors for any length of time.

I could see the high-rise apartment buildings along the avenues with window air conditioning units hanging out the windows and when I visited shops, offices and the local hospital. It is the quality of air conditioning we remember from the 1950's or perhaps electric fans moving warm air. Speaking of fans, remember those decorative fans used in plays by Victorian women to be coy – those fold out fans are not for play in Beijing. The fan is a necessity for survival. It may be the only way to move the air to create some coolness on your sweaty brow to survive a tedious meeting.

There is air conditioning in the Western hotels and fine restaurants and that is a source of refuge when you think you just cannot take the heat any longer.

A visit to any of the impressive tourist sites, the Lama Temple, The Forbidden City or The Summer Palace raises one's awareness of new paint and spruced up grounds. Graffiti is gone, waste paper is swept up by hired street sweepers, and vagabonds are escorted from view. The city is getting ready for the big show in August 2008. No beggars cluttered the entrances to public places nor did I notice street vendors or musicians.

Little parks of green grass, flowers and trees are seen everywhere as a green relief in a jungle of tall buildings. Looking good is a national value whether it is a building or crowd behavior watching a soccer game.