This time of year always evokes childhood memories of tree decorating, big smiles in anticipation of goodies overflowing from stockings on Christmas morning, and, of course, leaving cookies and milk for Santa.

While I've always enjoyed these holiday family traditions, I have never been a strict follower of them. (I stopped a long-held family traditional of eating spaghetti and meatballs on Christmas Eve because I didn't like spaghetti and meatballs. What child doesn't like spaghetti and meatballs?)

Therefore, I've decided to resurrect some of my family's cookie recipes and start some of my own holiday baking traditions. Christmas cookies originated in the Middle Ages, with the traditional German lebkuchen (gingerbread) and the English sugar cookie cut with Dutch and German cutters becoming popular early (The Food Timeline, http://www.foodtimeline.org/christmasfood.html, accessed Nov. 29, 2007). Spices and dried fruits from the Indian and Mediterranean subcontinents were rare and expensive, so only used on special occasions, such as weddings and holidays. Traditions arose and grew and were passed down through families over the centuries. My great-grandmother passed down several recipes that are classics. I can remember baking numerous sugar cookies, cut with old cutters in the shapes of Santa with his bag of toys, candy canes, or Christmas trees, and topped with nonpareils of silver, sprinkles of rainbow colors and red hots. But I also remember the special treat of rum balls and cheese wafers. We only made these items once a year, hence lending uniqueness to our Christmas tradition.

The other ubiquitous institution during our holiday was traditional fruitcake. I try it every year, and every year I hate it. Its density of a quasar, its over-sweet taste that makes my mouth cringe – yuck. Soaked in rum or brandy or not, it doesn't matter. And what's up with those green and yellow cherries? Aren't cherries supposed to be red? And NOT fluorescent red? My family loves it. My husband loves it. And I can't stand it. So this year, I've created what I hope to become a new traditional fruitcake, without the corn syrup and food coloring.

This year consider expanding your palette and enticing friends, family and neighbors with new flavor mixtures and recipes, such as the ones below. And, as always, include your kids in the baking experience – they'll remember it for a lifetime.

[Followed by three detailed recipes: Chocolate Candy Cane Biscotti, Everyone Can Love THIS Fruitcake, Great Grandmother Birdie's Cheese Wafers, and Rum Balls]