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Just Back from.....Ghobi Desert

· By Matt Hannan · From pages 24, 25 of the print edition

August 8 was the auspicious date Chinese officials chose for the start of the Beijing Olympics in 2008. On the evening of that particular day I found myself alone in the lounge of the J. W. Marriott's newest luxury property in Beijing's Central Business District. My clients had left early that afternoon on the Yale University shuttle, via special access lane, bound directly for the Ai Wei Wei-designed 'Bird Nest Stadium', to attend the opening ceremony. I sat watching the magnificent presentation of 4,000 years of Chinese cultural achievements on the wide screen television before me.

Not only was I enthralled by the spectacle before my eyes, I was also contemplating what had just passed.

Two weeks prior, our small group of five began a journey through China, visiting Shanghai, Guilin, Xian and Beijing. In the midst of the program was a fascinating excursion to the small town of Hami, located in Xinjiang province next to Mongolia, and a former stop along the fabled Silk Road.

No longer a feature on modern itineraries, Hami became a central attraction once again due to its proximity to the Ghobi Desert. For that year one of the natural worlds most celebrated events was to take place - a total Solar Eclipse.

Not being seasoned eclipse watchers, we found ourselves in the midst of thousands of fans on a rocky gravel plain surrounded by low mountains skirting terrain the Chinese call Ge Bi Sha Mou. Many international astrological organizations had set up viewing positions so, as novices, we saddled up next to one and awaited the highly anticipated event.

Even as the evening approached, the sun was scorching. But just prior to 6 p.m. we noticed something began to change as a dark shadow drifted slowly across the edge of the sun. The outline of the mountain ridge in the distance became more pronounced, day turned to dusk and Venus and Mars appeared.

As the dark sphere of the moon entered into full eclipse, the sun's corona glowed around its edges and the crowd went wild.

For two minutes we held our breath, dumbfounded at the incongruity of it all and wondering if the world were about to end. But as the sun re-emerged we found ourselves still alive, breathed deeply and with utter exhilaration, celebrated the wonder of the natural world.