Vine & Dish
Wine can be a grandiose word – conjuring up much mystique and mystery about the taste, the making, the estates and the personalities behind the glass. It leads to elaborate discussions pondering the typical subjects when it comes to the vine – the right soil? Right climate? Right grape varietal? When it comes to the subject of food and wine "pairing" one has to wonder – "what the heck does that really mean?" I, myself have been an exasperated bystander to many late night discussions with wine & chef elites as they tediously analyze just how well the Riesling works with the lobster – most of these discussions, fueled by the juice itself, usually end up with a slight differing of opinion and an agreement to go out to dinner. So what's all the fuss about?
Wine really is enhanced when paired with the right food – food brings out the characteristics of the fruit, soil and even the juxtaposition of the grapes as they developed. Wine brings out the true textures and flavors of food – after all wine and food are agricultural acts and deserved to be paired together like a good ripe tomato and a crisp cucumber. I've tried to zero in on the question; "why do certain wines work so well with particular foods?"
The column Vine & Dish will introduce Virginia wines paired with an easy to make dish. We begin our pursuit with Boxwood winery, a bottle called Trellis and Safeway mushrooms.
Boxwood Winery, established in Middleburg, Va., is a boutique estate winery, which has a notable line up of Bordeaux style wines. This progressive contemporary vineyard is laid out in complete agreement with the physical environment to produce distinctive grapes and impressive wines. Boxwood, situated on 160 acres of picturesque running hills, produces just five grapes aka "the fab five" – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec – are a blend notorious for producing stellar wines such as the Opus One and Pahlmeyer.
The wine, aged in stainless steel vessels, which is a nonpartisan material, and serves to preserve the fresh fruit flavors of the grape. Boxwood's Bordeaux style Trellis, 2011 is rich with earthy floral notes and a pleasing minerality in the finish, staying true to its French characteristics. With its hints of cherry & thyme it is a terrific "dish wine". This soft wine pairs well with a blend of rich mushrooms. Fungi is ideal because of its earthy, smoky flavors. They are a nice compliment to this as they draw out the toasty essence of Trellis and help to balance the acidity.
Rainfall mixed with cool and cloudy weather resulted in the grapes preserving their fresh flavors and acidity. The rainy year also led to a profound softness and round character in the tannic structure of the grapes. Just 915 cases were produced this year.
Pair this medium body wine with cheddar grits and sautéed mushrooms, they properly serve its composition. Grits are a terrific base for vegetables and meats as they absorb cooking juices and act perfectly in a supporting role. Keeping the cooking process simple will result in a slightly neutral flavor that can host any sort of vegetable or protein. The important thing to remember about cooking grits is that they absorb a lot of liquid and need to be monitored regularly. Most package directions recommend cooking them covered, however; it has been my experience that uncovered is best. Grits can be substituted with their Italian cousin polenta for this recipe. The addition of cheese gives the creamy consistency that works well when paired with Trellis.
Adding sautéed mushrooms to the grits are a hearty main course and are perfect for dinner in the impending Indian summer style cooler nights. This blend of "Safeway" mushrooms, available right in the produce dept., is White Button & Brown Baby Bella Crimini. White Buttons are fragrant, nutty and become lighter in color when cooked. Criminis have a deep earthy smoky flavor and are firmer in texture. The brown colors that develop over heat give the finished dish that hint of prominent fall colors soon to augment the countryside. Delicious with Boxwood's Trellis, 2011 – salute!
Cheddar Cheese Grits with Safeway Mushrooms, Garlic & Green Onion
Serves 6
Cheddar Grits:
4 cups boiling water
¾ Tbsp sea salt
2 cups instant grits
1 tsp fresh cracked pepper
1 ¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
Prepare grits:
Pour grits into salted boiling water and turn heat down to med and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon. In the last few minutes of cooking (as the grits are softened to taste) stir in cheese. Place the pot on a trivet to cool while you cook your mushrooms.
Mushroom Sautee:
4 cups mushrooms, chopped to ¼ thickness – no less
1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
½ tsp salt
1 Tbsp butter
1/8 tsp cracked black pepper
1/3 cup chopped green onion
Heat oil to medium high temperature. Add garlic and shallot, cook one minute. Add mushrooms, turn heat to medium. Cook mushrooms three minutes, add butter, salt and pepper, cook additional 3 minutes.
Cooking note: Keep mushrooms firm to the touch – this brings out the best flavor and texture of the mushrooms. Over cooking will lead to a bitter taste and loss of the "meaty" texture.
To finish: Spoon grits into 6 bowls and top with mushrooms and grate more cheddar on top. Enjoy with Boxwood's Trellis 2011.