A Winter Carnival
Winter is full of possibilities, frost patterns on windows, crusty driveways, a new day of shivers, icy landscapes and wholly celebrated snow days. The best forecast, however, is of course the idea of leaving it all behind and taking a sun drenched holiday in a comfortable climate. Food and wine mercifully have the potential to transform you to that sultry scene even if you're not, in fact, sitting on a tarmac waiting for the Captain to taxi the runway. This month's Vine and Dish employs these therapeutic, healing powers to offer a wintery 'Calgon moment' and inspire a carnival of sorts in the kitchen.
The place is Portugal, the month is February when the traditional celebration of Carnival is underway. Carnival is a time-honored fête that commemorates the ending of winter and the beginning of Lent, much like Mardi Gras. There is an abundance of fabulous food and wine to be consumed along with vivid costumes, legendary street music and lots of partying in an ever so agreeable atmosphere. It takes the local folk almost a year to prepare for their much-loved Carnival.
Here in the foothills of the Blue Ridge, I visited Morais Vineyard on a brutally cold but sunny day, one of those days where the wind is wicked, and a short walk from a parking lot can chill to the bone in seconds, but ironically you are still wearing sunglasses. In this spirit, I was warmly welcomed in the tasting room where the music was genuinely rocking and patrons were cozy, toasty and completely happy. The octagonal shaped tasting room was laden with winter sun like a solarium providing a momentary respite from the arctic-like chill and glorified the humble winter sunlight. The room is handsomely embellished with a display of wine bottles 20 feet up a circular wine rack that takes center stage. It sends the eye soaring to the wood beamed ceiling. This high-energy space is rustic and charming with a contemporary twist.
Owner José Morais is from Portugal and here in Virginia he has pursued his life long dream of opening a winery. The estate vineyard located in Bealeton, 10 miles south of Warrenton, is honored to be among the 2013 Top Picks by Virginia Living Magazine this past year. Their wines have earned coveted medals in regional competitions and are proving to be one of Virginia's up and comers. I tried the Touriga Nacional (a bronze medalist) vinified through traditional Portuguese methods of foot stamped grapes known as lagar crushing. It's made using the Portuguese native grape of the same name, a small grape that can be difficult to cultivate. The high tannins give it a concentrated flavor and ads body and structure to the wine. It has a wild berry nose and on the finish there are hints of grassy herbs and white pepper. Its striking color is of medium crimson gives it eye appeal.
Thinking I would keep the Portuguese notion in play, I recreated a recipe from another source of great national pride – a dish called Calde Verde, a kale and sausage soup. The ingredients are simple and easy to source in the winter. I added root vegetables to create a sweet twist making it a straightforward and satisfying dish. Paired with the Touriga Nacional, it creates a harmonious blend of terroires, of the grape, and that of the hearty vegetables.
So when winter weather leaves you chilled to the bone, stuck inside, and longing for a transformation a few thousand miles away - visualize yourself at Carnival in Portugal from your kitchen stove and "pular carnaval."
Caldo Verde
Serves 4-6
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1 tsp Caraway seeds, crushed
2 cups Idaho potatoes, peeled and diced
2 quarts water
1 tbs yellow miso paste
Salt and black pepper
1 pound kale, washed, trimmed of the thick stems and thinly sliced
In a medium soup pot, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil, add onions, garlic and caraway seeds, cook for 2 to 3 minutes until they turn glassy, don't let them get brown. Add potatoes, water and miso. Cover and boil gently over medium heat for 20 minutes. When the potatoes are tender mash them with a potato masher right in the pot. Add kale to the soup and allow to softly simmer for 20 minutes. Add the remaining olive oil and season. Ladle into bowls and serve with toasted country bread or corn bread.