Ratatouille Rolls In
One of my favorite dishes to prepare once all the bounty of the season starts rolling in is Ratatouille. It's an easy preparation using rough chopped vegetables and is forgiving once on the stove. This particular recipe brings together two culinary standards (of Italy and France) in a progressive yet simple approach. Both dishes have a history of being peasant food making them rustic and approachable in style.
Polenta is one of Italy's oldest dishes and perhaps is one of its more notorious culinary ambassadors. Historically, depending on the region – polenta takes on different nuances. Here it's grilled and makes a perfect complement to the Ratatouille. In a classic polenta preparation, it would serve it as a dish by itself like porridge. For this one, it is important to keep the mixture tight, so it doesn't slip through the grill if the consistency is too loose.
Ratatouille is a versatile dish that integrates into many different culinary formats. Originating in Nice, it comes from the French term "touiller," which means to toss food. It can be made to taste fresh and chunky or slightly thick and jammy. Each vegetable layer that is seared and cooked in the pan creates various flavors for the upcoming vegetables. The older versions of the recipe require the vegetables to be cooked entirely separate from each other then put in the pot together once fully cooked. This recipe adds the vegetables in layers as they are partially cooked then they stew together developing final flavors as they cook low and slow. The Ratatouille is then combined with grilled polenta - country style.
It pairs particularly well with RdV's 2010 Rendezvous. While one of the area's more exclusive wineries, it's one of the preeminent up and comers in the state of Virginia today. The Rendezvous, a Red Bordeaux blend, is deep and fruity with a dark crimson color and a bit of minerality on the finish. This wine is rich and well-balanced pairing perfectly with the slight acidity and chunky nature of the ratatouille yet respects the creamy grilled flavor of the polenta.
Ratatouille with Grilled Polenta
Makes 4 portions
2 ripe tomatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
1 red onion medium, cut into medium dice
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 small eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 zucchini medium, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 yellow squash medium, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 red bell pepper medium, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 cups V-8 juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups grated gruyere or Swiss cheese (8 ounces)
Prep the tomatoes. Bring a medium-size pot of water to boiling over high heat. Drop the tomatoes into the water and cook for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Use a paring knife to peel the tomatoes; then core each one and squeeze out the seeds. Chop the tomatoes.
Cook the ratatouille. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat. Stir in the onions and garlic, cook until shiny—2 minutes. Stir in the eggplant, cook for 3 minutes. Stir in the zucchini, yellow squash, peppers, and tomatoes; cook until they are shiny and slightly softened—3 to 5 minutes. Add the juice and thyme; bring the mixture to simmering. Lower the heat to low; cover the pan and simmer until the mixture has thickened and the vegetables are cooked through—30 minutes.
Add the topping. Preheat the oven to broil. Stir the salt and pepper into the ratatouille; taste the mixture and add more seasoning if you wish. Sprinkle the cheese and toasted pine nuts over the ratatouille and place the pan under the broiler until the cheese is melted and beginning to brown for 2-3 minutes. Top with grilled polenta (recipe follows). Serve immediately, family style is always best.
Grilled Polenta
2 cups water
1 cup milk
1 1/2 cups instant polenta
1 tablespoon minced rosemary
1 tablespoon butter
salt and pepper to taste
Prepare the polenta by placing milk and water into a 3 qt. sauce pot, bring to a soft simmer, add polenta, stirring constantly.
Cook on low heat until polenta is cooked, approximately 15 minutes. Stir in rosemary and butter, adjust seasoning and keep warm (polenta should have a "porridge" appearance). If consistency is too loose polenta will not grill well - be sure mixture is thick and tight - like cookie batter. Place in glass baking dish and cool polenta. Cut into triangles or squares. Thoroughly clean and oil grill (carbon build up will make polenta stick), brush polenta generously with oil. Grill on very hot grill - polenta should not stick to grill before turning. If consistency is still loose finish in oven.